With the block back from the machine shop, it was time to make it pretty. I spent a couple of hours grinding and brushing rust off the outside of the block, then applied three coats of a heat resistant primer. After letting it bond for a week, I applied three coats of Ford Dark Blue heat resistant enamel paint.
As you can tell, I spent a fair amount of time taping the block. I didn't want to worry about overspray getting into oil passages, etc.
Everything went well during painting, the only lesson learned was that I should have cleaned the block one final time after removing the rust and before painting. I assumed it would be no problem to wash it after I painted ~ and it really shouldn't be a problem as long as I'm careful using the carb cleaner on the bearing seats, etc. as it can eat the paint away.
I wondered why didn't you just buy a long or short block setup from Summit or MAW or JEGS? Those are reputable? I'd be too scared of screwing stuff up + all the special tools needed $$$!
ReplyDeleteNot tryin to piss in your Cheerios, but I think this is a real deal http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/397/M-6007-A46SC/10002/-1?parentProductId=1017693
ReplyDeleteAll aluminum Ford Racing crate motor.
Oops. that was the forced induction motor. About $500 more expensive than natural aspiration. Maybe this is the motor for Darryl's Low-Rider....
ReplyDeleteThis is the crate I used as a guide to blueprint mine from:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9290
I'll be close in price, but my block won't be as nice. I really wanted the full experience though... and I needed to pace my spending anyhow.